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Another question on A4WD1/AL5 ARM Turtorial PS2

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Posted: 2010-08-25 15:11 
zman35 wrote:
Hello Im back. I just wanted to give you an update on what happened with the Sabertooth. I spoke with Dim. Eng. and they replaced it with no problems. I worked on the Tank Mode Test program this morning and the motors ran fine. I do have a couple of questions for you.

You know on Ch1/Ch2 you have to take out the red wire I noticed on my Sabertooth the other two wires are a little loose (blk/org) in their output plug. When I first ran the program it was doing the same thing as before and I couldnt believe it :roll: When I took a closer look at the plug is when I noticed that the blk/org wires are a little loose. So when I slightly push them in the plug while running the program no problems at all. I just have to figure out a way to keep them securely in place from now on. I dont think its that big of a deal, but if you have any ideas to them in place thats cool.


You could replace the cables, but beyond that, I don't know how to fix the cables you have.

zman35 wrote:
Well...while I was waiting for my Sabertooth I was working on my arm with RIOS and you know before I can do that I have to modify the arm 30 degrees in the arm assembly which I did and also calibrated the arm in RIOS. Now my question is back to the tutorial http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/html/build148.htm moving on to Step 11 Servo/Motor Control Calibration. Going through the program and finding the offsets Step 13 says place the robot in a position as close to neutral as possible, and turn it on. The robot should go to and hold the neutral position, and should resemble figure 13, which is 90 degrees. If the joints are off by more than 15� you may have made an error in assembly. If Im not mistaking its not going to be at 90 degrees its going to be at the modifications that I made for RIOS, correct? If so do I continue with this tutorial first and make it 90 degrees and then start back up with RIOS again?


The modification is only required for using RIOS. If you are not using RIOS you must put the elbow back to 90°.

zman35 wrote:
One more question after I make it wireless will my robot run by the Bot Board II and not SSC-32. I was just wondering because Ive been using the SSC-32 for RIOS. I noticed in the manual V1.06 Ch. 8 it talks about the Basic Atom 24 and Bot Board. Is this where I make my modifications? I also found this in the forum viewtopic.php?t=2401. Is this something to consider also?
Thanks.


RIOS allows you to create a program for the Basic Atom that essentially replaces the PC. It will send the same commands the PC was sending for a particular project. This is generally considered a fixed arm system, I.e. the arm is stationary... The tutorial you are following is to make the arm work as a remote control manipulator on the 4WD Rover, a mobile platform. It has no association with RIOS.

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Posted: 2010-08-27 00:11 
So close to finishing this tutorial, Im finally on the last step. I didnt have any problems with the servo offset program, it ran according to fig. 12. One thing I noticed and I dont know if this is a coincidence but I didnt need to make any adjustments and my values are exactly as Table 15-1. I ran the program a couple of times with the same results. Is this something I should be concerned about? Now on to my next problem...

Step 13 says place the robot in a position as close to neutral as possible, and turn it on. The robot should go to and hold the neutral position of 90 degrees and it did with no problems, very pleased about that. Step 15 says open the rover file so I can place my servo values but when I run the program the A, B, C buttons all light up with a high pitch tone and my robot goes from 90 degrees to the RIOS calibrated default position. I went back to Lynxterm to check out my servos by clicking on ALL=1500 and my arm was at 90 degrees. I know in your previous post you mentioned the modification I made is only required for using RIOS. This is where Im stuck at now. Have any suggestions?
Because my arm goes back to the default RIOS position, should I go to RIOS and make the default positon 90 degrees now? Thanks.

I made two videos. First one is of the offset servo program and the second one is the rover file program. The clips that you see in the rover file video is a temporary fix on the loose CH1/Ch2 wires that I mentioned in my previous post.



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Posted: 2010-08-29 23:37 
Hi Ive been working on my problem with the rover program with at least one result. I entered my servo results etc. but as I scrolled down to the MIN/MAX angles I thought maybe I could work on these degrees to get the 90 degree default position. I kept the base the same and I changed the shoulder to a different degree which did work. It took a couple of tries but the shoulder is vertical now instead of the RIOS default. Do you think I should continue with changing the degrees on the rest of the arm? Also in step 17 when it says a series of beeps in my video, if you hear them, is that the correct sound they are supposed to be?
Thanks.


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Posted: 2010-08-30 10:39 
Hi,

It seems like an old post but did you fixed this?

I've noticed that you've got the jumpers for the leds/buttons installed like it says in the tutorial. As I remember it correctly you should remove the jumpers marked with nr 2


Xan

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Posted: 2010-08-30 11:37 
zman35 wrote:
Hi Ive been working on my problem with the rover program with at least one result. I entered my servo results etc. but as I scrolled down to the MIN/MAX angles I thought maybe I could work on these degrees to get the 90 degree default position. I kept the base the same and I changed the shoulder to a different degree which did work. It took a couple of tries but the shoulder is vertical now instead of the RIOS default. Do you think I should continue with changing the degrees on the rest of the arm? Also in step 17 when it says a series of beeps in my video, if you hear them, is that the correct sound they are supposed to be?
Thanks.


You do realize the shoulder and elbow servos, being digital, will turn on and hold whatever position they were at when you apply power right...

There is no reason to change anything in the program. If you connect LynxTerm and click all=1500 and the forearm is horizontal, there is no reason to change anything mechanical or in the program. I'm willing to help you to the end, but I'm not getting involved if you are changing the program on the tutorials.

The series of beeps you were hearing is because the PS2 controller and the Atom are not communicating properly. The LEDs on the PS2 receiver are also blinking, right? The beeps should only happen a couple times. For a test you can connect the PS2 controller to a PS2 game console. Also you can try connecting ONLY the power to the receiver, leave the 4 conductor plug unconnected, and see if the LEDs will go on steady. This removes the Atom from the picture.

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Posted: 2010-08-30 11:56 
Hi Xan. Looking at my Bot Board I didnt see any jumpers marked nr2. The closest thing that came to that was the "A" button which was marked with R2 and above it was R6. Is that what you mean? I went ahead and removed it, ran the program with the same results as before. My shoulder is still vertical and rest of the arm slants all the way down, beeps are still the same.


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Posted: 2010-08-30 12:00 
zman35 wrote:
Hi Xan. Looking at my Bot Board I didnt see any jumpers marked nr2. The closest thing that came to that was the "A" button which was marked with R2 and above it was R6. Is that what you mean?

Xan is referring to the jumpers marked with a red number 2 in the diagram he posted. You are to remove the jumpers that are outlined in blue on the diagram.

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Posted: 2010-08-30 12:06 
I understand Robot Dude. Any unnecessary changes that I made to the program I will change back. The suggestions that you gave me and from now on I will work on to see what happens.
Thanks. :wink:


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Posted: 2010-08-30 14:28 
zman35 wrote:
Hi Xan. Looking at my Bot Board I didnt see any jumpers marked nr2. The closest thing that came to that was the "A" button which was marked with R2 and above it was R6. Is that what you mean? I went ahead and removed it, ran the program with the same results as before. My shoulder is still vertical and rest of the arm slants all the way down, beeps are still the same.


The jumpers which are connected to the buttons/leds A, B and C need to be removed. I added a image to my previous post to show you where they are located. The buttons/leds are connected to the same pins as the PS2 receiver. They can interfere with the remote. Once the jumpers are removed turn it on and hit the 'select' button. This will switch from driving mode to arm mode and you should be able to move the arm.

Hope it help

xan

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Posted: 2010-08-31 00:44 
Ok..before I started back up on step 17 I did check to see if the LEDs on the PS2 were blinking and they were not. Looking closely at it, the Controller Cable was plugged in correctly to the Bot Board and believe it or not I had the Controller Receiver plugged in upside down into the Cable :roll: When I corrected this problem and ran the program there was a series of beeps that lasted a few seconds, not constant like before, and the Receiver green light keeps blinking and the red light stays on (not blinking). Also, the A, B, C LEDs stay on. Is it correct to have the Receiver green light blinking and the red one stays on? Just wondering if I missed anything now. I know Im jumping ahead of myself but will I eventually use this http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/html/build034.htm
Thanks.


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Posted: 2010-08-31 02:07 
Turn on your PS2 joystick, and they should both go solid.

Alan KM6VV

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Posted: 2010-08-31 10:50 
I cant remember from last night because I worked on step 17 before I went to bed, but in my previous post I said that the Receiver green light blinks and the red stays constant which may be wrong. Anyways this morning when I turned on my robot the Receiver green light stays on constant and the red one blinks. KM6VV when you say turn on the PS2 joystick should I do it before I turn on my robot, or after, at the same time? I did all these and the green light still blinks and the red stays constant. When I turn on the joystick do I need to push any of the buttons (analog, start, select)? When turning on the joystick should the red or green led on it do anything?


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Posted: 2010-08-31 11:38 
Pull the 4 position plug from PS2 controller cable from the Bot board. (I'm asking you to do this to remove the Atom and it's code from the system) The PS2 Tx and Rx will sync up with only power applied...

Turn the power to the robot on.

Turn the thing you hold in your hands on.

The red LED should blink a few times and glow steady.

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Posted: 2010-08-31 12:25 
When I pulled the PS2 plug from the Bot Board and turned the robot on the ABC LEDs all lit up amd made the constant beeping noise as in my video. I turned on the remote and nothing happened, the red LED did not blink. The Receiver still had a solid green light and the red one blinking. When I put the PS2 plug back in, turned on the rebot I got the couple of beeps from the Bot Board and the Receiver is still the same. Im pretty sure I have the plug put in correctly, 12-Brown and 15-Blue Blk/Wht wire on the outside.


Last edited by zman35 on 2010-08-31 12:30, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: 2010-08-31 12:27 
Also I have been bit before: Make sure the power you are supplying to the PS2 is +5v not VS. I have accidentally had the wrong jumper setting on the power going to the PS2 and it would not sync.

Kurt


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