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Connection Issues with Lynxmotion PS2 Controller w/ 3DOF Bot

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Rookie ( offline )
Posts: 12
Posted: 2011-10-08 20:31 
I have been following the instructions provided to create and build the robot, and I am currently at a stage in which I should be able to control the robot with the Lynxmotion PS2 Controller.

Currently, when the power switch is toggled on the robot sets to it's basic configuration. The PS2 Wireless adaptor will show a solid green light with a blinking red light, while the controller itself will show a flashing red light on the left LED.

I tested the controller with a PS2 system and it worked with all lights on both controller and reciever solid.

I have the jumpers on the SSC 32 board set to provide a baud of 38.4Kbps, and have connected the PS2 reciever as shown in your pictures. It currently has 2 wires that are not connected, with my only thoughts being that one of those wires needs 7.5Vdc. (not sure on this, as I cannot find conclusive evidence.)

I get a few short, consecutive beeps at start up, but from what I've read that's normal.

Other than that I am lost as to what I should do. Any help would be appreciated.

Pictures provided below. If any more are needed, please let me know.

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i46 ... 29_812.jpg
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i46 ... 16_872.jpg
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i46 ... 00_394.jpg


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Posts: 3299
Posted: 2011-10-09 03:28 
sounds perfect. we need to know what tutorial you have used so we can make sure your set up and baud rate is correct and also a photo of your SSC!
My thoughts are that you have a power problem with your servos.

Oh and you need to peal off the plastic protective film on those lexan panels! :wink:

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Freelance Concept Art & Animatronics, 3D Art and 3D Modelling, as well as Physical Modelling, Mechanical design, and illustration.
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Rookie ( offline )
Posts: 12
Posted: 2011-10-10 17:42 
Awesome, thanks! I'll get those pictures to you as soon as I can. I'll pull it apart a little bit tonight and try to upload a few more pictures.

I'll pull up the links to the tutorials as well.

If I may ask in the mean time, how would a power problem to the servo's prevent the controller from connecting?


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Guru ( offline )
Posts: 9257
Posted: 2011-10-10 17:55 
Would be better if we could see the power wiring as well. It is possible to plug the receiver into the cable upside down. I'm not confident the Atom chip is properly installed. I think it needs to be seated more into the socket.

We will get this working. More pictures, with entire board showing, SSC-32 and Bot Board II. :D

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I've always tried to do my best...


Rookie ( offline )
Posts: 12
Posted: 2011-10-10 22:01 
Ok, here's a series of links that I've used. I kinda like to do my research, so there may be a good number of them.

Basic Build Instructions
http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/html/build113.htm
http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/html/build42d.htm
http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/html/build99c.htm
http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/html/build99b.htm
http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/data/ppodh.pdf

And bot board II:
http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/html/build151.htm

I've attached a copy of the Basic Code I'm using: (Which is compiled using PowerPod and unedited BasicPRO programming)
Attachment:
Sigh.bas [26.76 KiB]
Downloaded 78 times


Last edited by DWol323 on 2011-10-10 22:38, edited 1 time in total.

Rookie ( offline )
Posts: 12
Posted: 2011-10-10 22:37 
Ok, and finally more pictures!

This is an overview of the SSC32
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i46 ... 39_656.jpg

Both sides at an angle.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i46 ... 58_817.jpg
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i46 ... 11_492.jpg

Power supply connections. (I think this is what you want)
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i46 ... 18_424.jpg
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i46 ... -19_13.jpg

The last are is a little messy, so I tried to show you a picture of the connections themselves.
- You'll notice two pair of the thin gauge power wires. They connect to the 9v Battry clip, and to the VLogic input of the BBII.
- The thicker wires connect to the switch, which connects to the main supply.

I am of the understanding that the 9v battery is just to supply the logic. As of the moment, I've just been powering the board with main battery, even during programming. I've tried it with all power sources connected with no difference.

Finally, here's a look at the Atom Chip on the BBII.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i46 ... 32_887.jpg

I understand that the chip looks like it's unseated, but I think it just has very long pins. Pin28 looks a little off especially, but it's as firmly seated as the rest. I've pulled it out with a gripper and re-seated it twice, and this is the lowest it can get. I've pressed down between a bottom mat with a rubber press on top and I can't get it to seat any further. Anything else and I'm worried about damaging components.

I hope this information helps. Thanks again!

Edit: I just wanted to say that the wireless reciever seems to be seated correctly into the base which is installed to the BBII. I read other posts where people say it was installed upside down, but I'm not sure as how that's possible without really forcing it. Kind of a square into round hole type of thing. Unless, I've got this mistaken for some other mistake, i just thought it would be good to note.


Rookie ( offline )
Posts: 12
Posted: 2011-10-12 15:33 
Is there more you need? Getting concerned that I'm S.O.L.


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Guru ( offline )
Posts: 9257
Posted: 2011-10-12 16:59 
The only thing I can see is the chip is not fully seated in the socket. Worst case scenario is you can send us the PS2 for testing.

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I've always tried to do my best...


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Guru ( offline )
Posts: 4124
Posted: 2011-10-12 18:42 
the Atom Pro chip installation in the last pix really looks questionable.



I think I see a pin on the left side (a few in) that is in too far towards the center of the socket. Any pins bent/wrinkled?

If you send something back, maybe send the BBII also, so that the chip can be properly seated.

I like to try a slight "rocking" motion, which with a little pressure will generally work the pins further in. However, the pins need to be straight; and properly aligned with the socket.

Alan KM6VV

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Rookie ( offline )
Posts: 12
Posted: 2011-10-12 18:57 
Yeah, looking at the picture makes it seem worse than how it looks.

If I need to ship this back with the controller, what's the expected process/turn around?

The pin that looks too far in is slightly bent, and that was the best I could make it seat. Even the back side of the chip doesn't want to seat any more than it has.

If the chip needs replacing, that's not really an issue. Just let me know what to do.

Also, I hooked up a corded PS2 controller and the robot would stand, seem like it tried to move, then fall. I thought maybe the controller was too much an added drain to the battery.

Other than that, just let me know what to do and I can try to get it overnighted to you hopefully by tomorrow.

Thanks again!


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Posts: 4913
Posted: 2011-10-12 20:00 
In cases like this, I usually like to backtrack and try to localize the problem down. Especially since I don't know what program you are using...

1) You said you tried out the PS2 remote and receiver on a PS2 and it worked. So the hardware part sounds like it is working.

2) Try to see if a Simple PS2 program works with it. Something like what is in the tutorial: http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/html/build034.htm

2a) If it does not work, what is the outputs shown on the screen. Is it valid data or all 0's or 255s? If it is valid data, and still blinking, it says that receiver is at least working well enough to talk to the BAP, if it is all 0's or 255s, than it is not talking.

2b) If it is not talking correctly, than need to double check things like:
a) Is the PS2 correctly installed into the PS2 cable. I think it is hard to do, but is it plugged in upside down...
b) Check how the wires are plugged into the BB2. On most of the cables, I believe that there is a brown wire on one side of a 4 pin connector. Is that plugged into the P12 on the BB2? Also is plugged into the IO pin (the ones closest to the center of the board). Is the power and ground pins connect properly. Is the power pins for that group of IO pins configured for +5v and not VS.
c) Sometimes it helps to remove the 3 jumpers/shunts above the speaker that connect to the three LEDS and buttons.

d) if the PS2 is not talking at all, check to see if the IO pins are working... Could run a simple program like:
Code:
i var byte
Main:
   for i = 12 to 15
       toggle i
       pause 100
    next
goto main
   

Warning this code was typed in on the fly so could have bugs...

If in this step you have the 3 jumpers installed that I mentioned in c) the three LEDs should go on and then off... This will show that you can talk to P12-P14. Won't show P15. However if you have a Servo extension wire or other like jumpers you can remove these jumpers, and use the extension cable, by plugging it into 3 pins, like P13-P15 and plug the other end into the upper row on pins where you removed the shunts from(nearest the buttons). With the above code and if you did P13-P15 with the cable, you should be able to verify now if P15 works as well... Note: several of us use this trick of bumpering some IO pins to these pins to help debug code (or hardware).

There are probably lots of other tests you can do, but these should help to localize what to do next.

Kurt


Rookie ( offline )
Posts: 12
Posted: 2011-10-13 18:36 
I appreciate the response and all the help you all have provided.

I'm going to be working on my robot this saturday, and I'm going to try all the things you have said.

I'm hesitant about the atom chip. Pin 28 is supposed to be Vin. If Pin28 wasn't connected to the board via the seat, then would I even be able to program it? Basic Atom software says that it connects and that that the programming was complete.

Should I still have problems then I'm of the determination that it will likely be the chip. That being said, I do not think I can seat the atom chip without breaking pin 28, so I'm pondering soldering it directly to the board. That'll be hard to do without overheating it, so I don't usually like to soldier IC's directly.

Last case scenario there. After that I guess the only thing i can do is send the entirety of the robot back to you to have a look. At that time I'll pay for an additional ATOM chip/BBII so you know that everything is functional and seated properly.

I do appreciate all the help. I'll keep you updated.


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Guru ( offline )
Posts: 4124
Posted: 2011-10-13 19:19 
Pin 28 probably isn't a problem, don't solder it.

If you have a DMM, you can read the voltage at the socket, and directly on the pin. You probably have Vin.

Alan KM6VV

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Posts: 9257
Posted: 2011-10-13 21:17 
Yeah the Botboard powers the Atom chip through the 5vdc input not through the Vin pin. ;)

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I've always tried to do my best...


Rookie ( offline )
Posts: 12
Posted: 2011-10-13 22:59 
I do have a DMM, and I will! That's good news.

So maybe I can eliminate P28 entirely from the chip. I'll let you know the results of my next phase of troubleshooting.

Thanks!


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