No problem Jim, i was convinced the larger screws were the rights ones as well as they look very similar to the 4-40. No setbacks, appreciate the customer service! 
EDIT: Pico switches came from robotshop.ca today. Still awaiting bluesmirf to arrive. For now, Im going to fool around with my SEQ software and SSC-32 and a few servos, see what I can make of it 
Ive been trying to connect my ssc-32 to the SEQ program, but keep seeing the ācant find ssc-cardā popup. I refferred to the Help section and it still dosent help. Im powering the SSC-32 before I turn on the program with a 9v battery on VL and have two jumper on Vs1=Vs2 and one on Baud on the B. Help is needed/ 
Hi,
As you have been very active on the forums, I am sure you have tried all of the obvious things, but just to be sureā¦
On your PC what type of serial port do you have. Hard wired and/or a USB to serial port?
On the SSC32 You have the jumpers on RX and TX to have the serial communication to use the DB9 connector and convert from TTLā¦
You have a working DB9 cable connecting the two
in SSC32 you have gone into the setup button and made sure the right serial port, baud rate and the like are selectedā¦
Edited in: when the battery is plugged in to the SSC32 the green light near the DB9 connector comes on showing the card has powerā¦
I am sure you have done all of the above, butā¦
Kurt
Yup, I did all that, and my serial cable is good. After refferring to This thread I realised 3 jumpers were not in place (which I suspected). My ssc-32 now connects and I have full control of all the buttons.
lynxmotion.net/viewtopic.php?t=2401
Thanks for the help anyway
One question, what is the Artillary part?! Is it going to have a holwitser on it or something! 
Your project is looking good. Keep it up man.
-Tim
It will have an electronic pellot gun on the top pan and tilt controlled by the SSC and a pico switch.
thanks for the comments! Getting metal and aluminum plates today for the body 
You do know that Artillary is indirect fire donāt you. Are you going to launch the pellots over fences or something?
How 'bout the 105mm holwitzer!
No, Iāve never used that term for indirect fire.
Hi Jim, just curious if you sent out that hardware yet? 8)
Yep, we sent it out yesterday, I believe. Iāll email the tracking number to you - I didnāt when it shipped because there was no order number on the package, so I couldnāt look it up. Sorry about that!
Today I began cutting the side panels of the rover from the metal plates using Metal cutters. Tomorrow I will grind the edges, cut the bottom and top as well as the angular side plates. Then I will cut the āLā bracket and drill and assemble the body. I expect to work 5 or more hours on this project tomorrow if nothing comes up (as something always does! )
sounds good joe 
a quick question though, how thick i s the metal ur using? wat type of meal cutters? like a pair of tin snips? i worry that its not thick enough to provide a stable frame
its probably about a millimeter thickā¦ It can bend pretty easy, but its metal and seems very strong. Thats all I can say right now, as soon as I get my camera tomorrow, Iāll take lots of pictures for you.
I got it at home depot, its the only sheet metal they had, so Im assuming its something like what you have, becuase its very hard to cut with a hack saw, and a bandsaw would be perfect, but the shears work good too providing I grind the edges later.
hmm, i dont think we have similar metals, mine is about as thick as the SES brackets and even in the full sixe 24 X 24" sheet, i was not able to flex it more than an inch out of plce (from a startng point in the middle)
idk, i just hope it works out for you 
Im sure it will. I have long aluminum L brackets that will line the entire inside of the chassis and reinforce all corners. Iāll show you tomorrow, promise
ok, i knew u were going to do that, im a bit worried still though, but w/e u say
EDIT:
btw, wat is ur robot going to look like? how are the sides and stuff going to be shaped? its sounds kina similar to mine
Refer to the first page for an image of the final product.
If you are working with metal, you might want to look into brazing the metal parts together instead of bolting. You should be able to join small parts together using a mapp gas torch, which go for ~$50. The below pages have videos and links.
