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the "tank"

#1

I am working on a project where I need to basically have a tank. I am going for a look sort of like the Russian Tunguska M-1. It does not have to be that big, I want it to go through doorways and the base (minus turret) to be up to my knees. I am going to have a frame of most likely aluminum welded together, and the black plastic lexan for the shell. I am most likely going to run it on a few motors for a pool or jaccuzi that I have in my garage. They are about 1 hp, take 12 volts, and run at 1800 rpm. I read the label. I have 2. I need to know where I can get a motor controller for these. I also would like a tank track instead of wheels. The road wheels should be about a foot in diameter, counting the width of the tracks. That places it at 65 miles per hour, according to your calculator. Does anyone know where I can get the tracks, road wheels, and motor controller?

EDIT: I need now a programmer board like the atom sold here, but capable of having gigabytes of storage. It would be good if it could be run as an emulator off a computer. I would run the whole thing off the computer, but I do not know how to plug in the sensors.

#2

While I talk about it, I may as well brag. It will hopefully have a fully functioning system to find a target with either sonar, thermals, or cameras. Whichever’s easier. I will use the sonar sensors here and most likely modify them for autonomous navigation. I am also thinking of a GPS from Sparkfun. It will have a small gas engine, and generator with a large battery, and have a laptop inside to provide the targets and a communications system.

#3

That sounds really neat, and expensive. If your looking to have a really good and powerfully fast motor controller (and expensive), You can check these ones out at robotmarketplace.com/marketplace_4QD.html

They are rated for VERY HIGH amperage if you need it. HAPPY ROBOTEERING :smiley:

#4

Well, these motors are supposed to be either 30 or 80 amps, the label is worn down.

#5

I think I will buy the PRO-120 24v one, 24 volts because i may upgrade the motors. And for the interface, the DMR-202 because it has “tank style steering”.

#6

Yep, that should do nicely. Ive never actually used it though, so I wouldn’t know how to set it up, but from the info it sounds powerful and lightning fast.

#7

Lynxmotion forums are diverse. A russian in America talking to an italian in Canada.

#8

Haha :smiley: parents are Italian, Im Canadian :wink:

#9

hmm, just to throw some input out there, i dont think this thing would be hitting 30, nvm 65

the motors are rated at no load most likely, and would drop considerably once you put a load on them, ecpescailly one like this

also you need to factor in the weight of everything, plus wind resistance that you encouter at high speeds

finally, i dont think that treads would hold up to speeds like that unless thatare built incrdebly well

hope this helps :confused:

#10

and you must also consider the fact that the battery or w/e powering this thing will begin to drop. Also, the tracks could be made of alluminum links or something.

#11

Yes, I was thinking of either some very tough metal tracks. And to get to the right speed I considered wheels, but it would wreck the wheels when it does zero-point turning. And it would be much too confusing with a steering assembly. Wind is another good point, I had thought the triangular pointed design of the front would help. Realistically, I think 30-40. I didn’t know what type of battery to use, Something like a Car battery but lithium polymer for power density. My friend suggested a spare electric car battery. The motors are rated to 1 1/2 horsepower, so I do not think power is an issue. The tracks may be replaced by 6 or 8 wheels, if I can find a reliable way of turning both the back and front tires at the same time. Power delivery to the wheels while they turn will also be difficult, as I do not know much about how those systems such as 4wd vehicles work.

#12

a car battery :open_mouth: :open_mouth:

those are like…30-40 lbs :open_mouth:, you were going to use that, you wold definatley need bigger motors, and you would need to build a custom aluminum bracket to holdthe thing, simply placing it in there is not an option

for the 4 wheel drive thing, typically i think 4 wheel drive veheciles use a “dogbone” setup, its sortof like a ball and socket joint so that the tires can go up and down and turn but they wont pop out, thats, all i know, well, atleast what i think i know :laughing:

#13

Even my Radio Shack Hummer RC truck has a dogbone setup for the steering and suspension. I know because I took the front and rear suspensions of a non-working RS Hummer apart. :smiley:

8-Dale

#14

I would go for the tank treads becuase you wont have to worry about the “dogbone” turning system breaking from the 30lbs of tank turning. Just dont run those metal treads on the hardwood floor! :open_mouth:

#15

“for the 4 wheel drive thing, typically i think 4 wheel drive veheciles use a “dogbone” setup, its sortof like a ball and socket joint so that the tires can go up and down and turn but they wont pop out, thats, all i know, well, atleast what i think i know”
Chunga
Is that the same as the axle you see on the bottom of large trucks?
customtacos.com/tech/files/slipjoint.jpg
And I realize it would be a very heavy battery, but it would last for a week.

#16

Bassically, only not that complex. :smiley:

#17

That will work then. I have to worry about where to get a U-joint. Possibly a visit to my local machine shop.

#18

I have one final question. Where can I find a either controller for the programs that supports the GPS module from SparkFun.com or computer emulation software for any Operating System? Size is no issue whatsoever. Let me rephrase; I have a laptop I will use as a controller but I need a way to attach the sensors. I have no idea how to do this.

#19

There are quite a few clunky pieces of hardware to interface computers to the real world.
National Instruments makes quite a few of them.
They’re really just microcontrollers that have been programmed to be a slave to your PC’s serial port.
In my opinion, though, you’d probably find it easier to just get a micro and do the interface yourself.

#20

I have looked around their web site for a little while, and realized I do not know what I am looking for is called. Do you have a link to any products you think might fit the application?