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UP! Mini 2 - Changing Z-axis

Tiertime's UP! 3D printers offer great value and high quality. That is, unless something / someone accidentally breaks part of it. Wish I had taken more (and better) photos, but hopefully some of this will be useful. If you find yourself disassembling an UP! Mini 2 and need some pointers, I’m here and happy to help - simply as in the comments below.

The image above shows the injection molded plastic build plate. The bag contains the broke grey plastic part which held down the timing pulley (shown in black with a bearing on either end), as well as four springs. One evident option would be to superglue / epoxy the plastic back in place, though there was no guarantee that would last. Fortunately Tiertime offers amazing support and offered to send a replacement Z-axis assembly (not just the part with the broken plastic).

This proved to be a great opportunity to see the inner workings of an UP! Mini 2. Before getting started, I set aside many small bins in order to separate screws and related items for when it was reassembled.

The UP! Mini 2 actually has an inner (black plastic and aluminum) frame which is covered by the  white injection-molded plastic. The white plastic serves to regulate temperature as well as prevent ABS fumes from escaping.

  • Remove all non-essential parts like the two top parts to the case (held in by magnets), the print bed and the heated plate (carefully remove the ribbon cable from the heated plate).

  • Remove the print head assembly: remove any filament, let it cool, then remove the connector at the top. The extruder assembly is clipped into place - push it upwards to unclip it, then pull it towards the front of the machine.

  • Flip the printer over and unscrew the 8x outermost screws (these hold the bottom of the white case). Unscrew the Phillips head screws, but leave the screws with the hex head.

  • Open the doors and unscrew the 6x smaller screws (three on either side), and leave the larger ones surrounded by metal / magnet?

  • On the inside of the frame, there are 6x screws holding the white plastic to the metal frame. Manually move the print head to access them, and remove them from either side.

  • Raise the handle and look inside at the corner where the handle connects to the plastic case - there will be a piece of metal which acts as a retainer. There are two screws to unscrew, and the metal can be removed vertically. The handle is now free to come off.

  • The front panel with the LCD display is actually hinged. There are two piece of molded plastic on either side which are purely aesthetic and easily removed (tab fit).

  • There are four clips holding the two Z-axis rods in place, which are covered in a 3D printed shell to prevent dust. The shells can be removed by hand, and each of the clips have a screw.

At this point, your printer won’t have much structural integrity, but everything is accessible. Note that the side panel with the button / RGB LED has a circuit board with a wire connecting it to the main frame. There is also a very small wire with an SMA connector which needs to be removed.

  • The Z-axis traveller (light grey plastic) has a slot into which the timing pulley fits (be sure to reinstall it at the right location!), as well as the cable connecting the stepper motor and switch to the main board.

  • The main board has the connectors color coded.

  • Be very careful with the 3D printed parts.

In retrospect:

  • The cover to the electronics can be removed easily without disassembling the case - there are three Phillips screws. Remove the clip holding down the black ribbon cable (for the heated bed) and take special care of the small black cable (with SMA connector).

  • The Z-axis can be removed without disassembling the entire case, but space is limited

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Have you printed something with this born again printer yet? :)

Indeed. We have another in-house to compare to and it's once again printing reliably. Very nice printer.